My Dining Room SW6
Tuesday March 9, 2010
My Dining Room, tucked in behind the Broadway, was a somewhat dodgy local, with one-armed bandits as clientele rather than for amusement.
In 2003 it reinvented as The Farm, sought out yuppies and dinkies, discovered polenta, but still struggled to persuade punters to make a 100-yard stroll off the beaten track.
Farm Lane all-but backs on to the tube station, but it takes something special to persuade people to leave the churn and the bright lights.
My Dining Room might have cracked it. Unlike earlier incarnations, it's a detour worth making; a clever blend of stonking good food, varied eating spaces, professional service, belief, enthusiasm and panache.
There's a roaring fire to sit at and peruse, there's a bistro/ cocktail bar for less formal noshing, and a dining zone with scope for patio tables when this eternal winter finally buggers off.
Mine host is the grandly named Olivier Lavigne de Cadet, a 42-year-old restaurateur from the Pyrenees who has created warmth in a minimalist setting (no mean feat) and whose pedigree (Cafe Flo brasseries; La Coupole, Paris; Conran's Bluebird; Bewley's, Dublin) is a recommendation in itself.
The kitchen is run by Julian Marshall, ex head chef at Mosimann's, who trained at happening Parisian haunts Le Bristol and Le Crillon.
Between them they've created an intriguing hybrid; order a la carte, or opt for convivial shared courses ('home' dishes) and tuck in across the table; the terrine being a good example.
My bride, not easily impressed, was. Which impressed me. The terrine was in a huge cast-iron pot - a terrific blend of flavoursome meat (it all comes from 'best small butcher in Britain' Walters of Barons Court) and moist fruit, served with divine bread.
I'd spotted steak tartare on the menu. Vegetarians look away now.
For the uninitiated, it's raw filet mignon, raw egg and Worcestershire sauce. And that's about it. The health and safety police thoroughly disapprove, but when it's good, it's heaven.
This was actually in burger form, lightly fried with a raw egg on top. It was melt-in-the-mouth, though another time I'd dispense with the bun. Price: £10.95.
My bride chose crispy pork belly with winter veg (£13.95). In the spirit of sharing, we swapped liberally. It is a winner of a dish; textured, layered perfection.
"I've lived in London 15 years, and I've always wanted to establish my own restaurant," said Olivier, pulling up a chair.
"I wanted a mix of traditional and modern, a place people can meet - like a hub - to have drinks and relax, have nibbles at the bar or full dinner in an easygoing setting."
He's succeeded. For a first restaurant, this is skillfully thought through and beautifully realised. Choosing a French-trained British chef was a masterstroke.
The dishes are honest and easily understood. The prices are fair (just over £20 for starter, main and glass of wine), and the wine list is laden with organic, unfiltered, small-vineyard numbers.
Light lunch? Share a huge salad. Modest dinner? Pool a starter and sip a Gamay d'Auvergne (£6.25 a glass). The glasses are tumblers, which makes gauging consumption tricky if you're driving, but adds to the informality of the look.
Puds include all-dig-in chocolate mousse, and light lemony cheesecake, slightly overwhelmed by a toffee-flavoured base.
Overall, this is an establishment which takes all its roles seriously, and produces sterling results. Leave the bright lights. Try Farm Lane.
My Dining Room, 18 Farm Lane, SW6 1PP. Call 020 7381 3331, browse the full menu and winelist online at http://www.mydiningroom.net/ (opens new window).
